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| | #1 (Link to post) | |||||||||||
| Super Moderator
| Well poop on a stick! I just stripped out the threads for the accelerator pump discharge nozzle screw. It was either the new screws which are a little funky with a slot at the bottom or it was because the bowl vent crossover tube makes it hard to get square on the screw or a combination of the two.Any ideas on a fix? It'll be a bitch to drill out for any type of heli-coil or whatever. I've never done one of them before either. Don't know if I really have a choice though. I had also read something about a loc-tite fix? | |||||||||||
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| | #2 (Link to post) | |||||||||||
| 8.1 = FUN
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__________________ 1974 Chevy k5 Specs "Remember Red, hope is a good thing, maybe the best of things, and no good thing ever dies" | |||||||||||
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| | #3 (Link to post) | |||||||||||
| Moderator
Name: Colorado Crew Joined: August 2006 Location: High Desert Plains
Posts: 2,792 (#5) Tech Points: 6 | I searched around for 20 minutes, all I found besides some type of insert was this Brazing material. Aluminum welding - Aluminum Repair - Aluminum Brazing - AluminumRepair.com Found this epoxy repair on a vintage tractor forum: Stripped Carburetor Some "J-B Weld" non-believers are going to frown on this fix, but I would never hesitate to try this before buying another carburetor. First, inspect threads in carburetor for "cleanliness" -- if dirty and full of Teflon tape or stick, pipe dope; buy a new shotgun barrel brass bore brush at Wal-Mart or similar Store, in size of .410 for a 410 shotgun. Clean stripped carburetor threads thoroughly with brush dipped in lacquer thinner or gasoline, using circular motion, and then clean threads again with lacquer thinner or gasoline on a Q-Tip until Q-Tip becomes white, and wipe dry with Q-tip -- do not touch the stripped threads with your fingers after they are cleaned -- oil from fingers are detrimental to this repair. (The above cleaning is the part of the work never done well by non-users and non-believers in epoxy repairs -- if epoxies wouldn't work, we wouldn't have any elderly movie stars with nice front teeth -- structural stress on teeth are far more intense than stress on a Cub carburetor gas line). Next get some J-B Weld & mix thoroughly, two (2)equal lengths of J-B Weld, (about 1" long each), mixed with a round tooth pick on a paper plate or similar items. Step (1): Carefully and neatly apply J-B Weld to the carburetor stripped threads with a round tooth pick, and carefully and neatly apply J-B Weld to the brass male gas line fitting such that you see two (2) smooth J-B Weld surfaces, one (1) on all of the male threads and one (1) on all of the female stripped threads. (Don't get any in the carburetor screen inside the carburetor). Step 2: Here's first the hardest part -- "Patience" -- allow the J-B Weld to set for about one (1) hour on both threads, depending on temperature & humidity. Step 3: Next carefully align male, brass gas line fitting in hole and screw into carburetor -- then carefully unscrew male brass fitting -- then remove all J-B Weld from male brass fitting only. Here's the second hardest part -- "Patience" -- wait about 24 hours before trying the clean male brass fitting in the new J-B Weld carburetor threads. When trying the next day, if fitting feels too loose, clean J-B Weld carburetor threads again with Q-tip & repeat Steps 1, 2, & 3 above. What happen if this fails? Relax! Second try: Clean & fill the J-B Weld carburetor threads with J-B Weld, allow to dry 24 hours and make new threads in the J-B Weld carburetor threads with a machinist's tap. Not to be facetious, but J-B Weld fails at above 500 degrees F, so if your carburetor begin to approach 500 degrees don't panic & jump off of the tractor -- your brass carburetor fitting and jets will begin to collapse which will cause the engine to stop before the J-B Weld fails. I find the old time stick, plumbers pipe dope from hardware stores, (about 1/2" diameter x 4-1/2" long), applied to threads is hard to beat for non-leaking gas line fittings. | |||||||||||
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| | #4 (Link to post) | |||||||||||
| Super Moderator
| Yeah, I gave up on the searching. I can't believe I'm the only one that's had this happen. I posted over on thirdgen.org too. ![]() I'm hoping Mike has some old hotrodders' trick. | |||||||||||
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| | #5 (Link to post) | ||||||||||||
| Super Moderator
| Quote: I still need to fix the carb because if I was to do the TBI swap this carb would be worth $200-250 to sell after the TBI was in. ![]() | ||||||||||||
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| | #6 (Link to post) | |||||||||||
| Moderator
Name: Colorado Crew Joined: August 2006 Location: High Desert Plains
Posts: 2,792 (#5) Tech Points: 6 | There's these Timesert thingies. ++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair , stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repai Can you get a slightly oversize machine screw and use that? | |||||||||||
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| | #7 (Link to post) | |||||||||||
| Super Moderator
| This is what I'm planning to try: Loctite Form-A-Thread Stripped Thread Repair Kits - summitracing.com ![]() I'm hoping I can find it locally. Seems like something one of the parts stores would have. ![]() This just really screws up my plans. Damn inconvenient I tell ya! Of course it has to happen in the winter when it's cold and gets dark earlier. | |||||||||||
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| | #8 (Link to post) | |||||||||||
| Moderator
Name: Colorado Crew Joined: August 2006 Location: High Desert Plains
Posts: 2,792 (#5) Tech Points: 6 | Here Scott - check this product at Summit Racing. Loctite Form-A-Thread Stripped Thread Repair Kits - summitracing.com | |||||||||||
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| | #9 (Link to post) | |||||||||||
| Moderator
Name: Colorado Crew Joined: August 2006 Location: High Desert Plains
Posts: 2,792 (#5) Tech Points: 6 | Oh Crap. ![]() |